Whether we’re at home or traveling, Marlon and I love to visit markets. Because we stayed at a self-catering apartment in Riga, a trip to the Riga Central Market became a necessary part of our visit, as well as a different insight into the city. Once we ventured beyond the pastel prettiness of the Old Town and stepped across the railway tracks to the market, Riga truly started to get real.
Spread out over five former Zeppelin hangars, the Riga Central Market was Europe’s biggest covered market when it first opened in the 1930s. Today, it’s the nerve center of the city, where people come to buy daily essentials—including, of course, food. Here are five of my fave finds from the Riga Central Market.
1) LATVIAN BREAD.
In my previous post, I mentioned how good Latvian bread is. (Side note: read this lively account of a baker’s trip to Riga, in which he enthuses that “the best old-world Jewish baking is in Riga.”) At the Riga Central Market, we discovered Latvian bread in all its various forms and hues, from fluffy white loaves to the deepest, darkest rye bread.
But the best of them all were these crunchy, savory bread chips from Latvia’s most famous bakery, Laci. I got seriously hooked on these!
Of all the things you can do with stale bread, deep frying it and tossing it in a secret mixture of herbs and salt has got to be the best—and the most addictive. Move over, potato chips… bread is where it’s at!
2) SMOKED FISH
One entire pavilion at the Riga Central Market is dedicated to fish, and I’d say about 2/3 of everything in that pavilion is smoked.
Smoking fish is a big part of local food culture, and here we saw all kinds: fish smoked with garlic, peppers, herbs and spices…
even smoked caviar, which formed a kind of chewy jerky.
Marlon and I love our smoked fish—as a child traveling to India, I once carried daing and smoked tinapa in my handbag on the flight—so we bought some for our dinners at home. Although our preference would have been to eat it with a heaping plate of hot rice (of course), instead we flaked some smoked mackerel over a big salad with vinaigrette on the side. Yum!
Latvians don’t only smoke their fish—they smoke their cheese too. We tried some of the smoked cheese, but I really loved were these soft cheeses crusted in different herbs and spices. My favorite was the cheese at the bottom, which is covered in a curry mixture. If you’re going on a picnic in Riga’s main city park, this with a salty-savory cracker would be perfect.
I was once a girl who fished pickles out of burgers and left them on my plate, uneaten. Pregnancy changed my relationship with pickles forever, and now I love them!
Next to smoking, pickling is a favorite technique at the Riga Central Market. With all sorts of pickled fruit and vegetables ranging from your usual gherkins to beets, tomatoes, whole heads of garlic, and even slaw (also known to us Pinoys as atchara), this is pickle paradise. Pregnant women, take note.
FRUITS AND BERRIES IN SEASON
Latvia is densely forested, with 47% of land covered by lush, green forests. This makes wild berries and fruits abundant, and picking them is a popular summertime pursuit. While we were there in July, these big, bright red cherries were overflowing from market stalls and sidewalk vendors around the city. At less than €5 (Php300) for a kilo, they were super cheap… and Tala loved them, too.
Is that five things already? Okay, this is not a foodie find, but always a favorite: FLOWERS!
Latvians love flowers. There’s even a 24-hour flower market in Riga—you know, for urgent flower needs, such as those 2 a.m. lovers’ quarrels or 5 a.m. train station goodbyes. Our visit to the Riga Central Market ended with a walk past these colorful flower stalls, which was a nice way to leave.
Apart from watching locals go about their daily business, the best thing about the Riga Central Market is that everything is super affordable. I even spotted some bouquets for as low as €1 apiece! I definitely recommend it if you’re in Riga on a budget—and even if you’re not, it’s a chance to experience Riga, for real.