Paris shopping: Merci & Bonton

Do you sometimes get the feeling that you’re the last person on earth to do something or go somewhere? I had that feeling for the longest time about Santorini—as if everyone I know had been there except for me (and Marlon).  More recently, I’ve felt that about watching Frozen. 

This is also the feeling I’ve had about the iconic, supercool Paris lifestyle store Merci. As I write this post, I’m picturing readers out there who will scan the title, sigh and close my blog. “Not another Merci post, yawn.” Forgive me, supercool people! After this post, I will join your jaded ranks. For now, allow me to be a wide-eyed first-timer.

On my last afternoon in Paris, I met Judith for lunch and a stroll around the Marais, but mostly to pop my Merci cherry.

Merci Paris typography suitcases

After lunch at the Merci Cinema Cafe, we elbowed past tour groups of worshipful, black-clad, carefully Eurodressed Japanese tourists—no belt bags and safari vests here—to explore three floors of supercoolness for every aspect of life. I tried to take pictures of everything (not supercool, I know) because it’s just that kind of store: it makes you believe that acquiring these artfully curated and displayed goods will make you a supercool version of yourself.

Merci Paris home section

The basement is stocked with smaller design items for the home and kitchen, and is also wire cage lamp heaven.

Merci Paris cage wire lamps

I had such a hard time finding our bedroom cage lamps online. Apparently they’ve been hiding en masse at Merci all this time.

Merci Paris lightbulbs

Call me weird, but if I had to move back home to the Philippines tomorrow, I would find a way to hoard light bulbs. Yes, light bulbs. If I never have to see another fluorescent bulb in my life, I will be fairly happy. Merci has a great selection.

Merci Paris valises star print

So, valises are apparently a thing. “They’re all the rage in Paris!” Which is the kind of thing your most annoying aunt would say.

Merci Paris valises Liberty

I loved browsing the living and dining furniture on the third floor… it just made me dream.

Merci Paris living room furniture

And it made me realize I can achieve this nonchalantly distressed, thousand-Euro effect by letting Rogue attack an armchair for a few years. “They do this in Paris,” I’ll tell visitors with a casual wave of my hand.

Merci Paris antique armchair

Post-Merci, we walked a few doors down to Bonton, a truly gorgeous (and yes, supercool) children’s store.

Bonton Paris entrance

I told you valises are a thing!

Bonton Paris spring valises

I immediately fell in love with the gorgeous colors, natural fabrics and classic yet unfussy aesthetic. But with price tags ranging from €44 for a pair of cotton bloomers to over €90 for a baby cardigan, this newly blossomed love is destined to remain a long-distance affair. Thank goodness for the bazar (read: small and cheap, but still cute and fun things) in the basement.

Bonton Paris children's clothes spring

I wish I’d known in advance that Bonton also has a coiffeur. I would’ve booked an appointment for Tala and totally become that hateful mother who can’t shut up about her daughter’s first haircut in Paris.

Bonton Paris children's coiffeur

We capped our window-shop-walk with macarons at Pierre Herme, which has officially dethroned Laduree as my favorite Paris macaron. I mean, just look at them!

Pierre Herme macarons Paris

With unusual flavor combinations such as green tea and bourbon, white truffle and hazelnut, and pistachio, cinnamon and cherry, they taste even better than they look.

Macarons Pierre Herme Paris

 

I enjoyed my window-shop-walk around the Marais, and now feel a thousand times cooler… I hope you do too!

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Paris museums: Modern art at Centre Georges Pompidou

Once you’ve ticked the obligatory tourist boxes, Paris really begins to open up. Though it’s within walking distance of the Louvre and the Musee D’Orsay, the Centre Georges Pompidou seems to get only a fraction of the crowds that besiege its neighboring museum heavyweights.

None of those for me this time around. I decided to dedicate an entire afternoon to the Centre Pompidou’s high-tech urban architecture and vast collection of modern and contemporary art.

Paris Centre Georges Pompidou

The most striking thing about the building, obviously, is the glass-encased escalator that snakes up and across the facade. Architects Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers designed the building so that all facilities for public movement and technical equipment would be funneled (their word was “centrifuged”) outside, leaving the inside floors completely free and usable.

Paris Centre Georges Pompidou with stroller

Because I had Tala with me in a stroller, I didn’t get to ride the famous escalators. Boo. But that’s okay. What wasn’t okay was wrestling with the effects of a nasty oyster, leaving me in a less than ideal mindset to, ehem, digest all that modern and contemporary (and, let’s face it, hard to understand) art.

So there I was with a baby, dashing to the bathroom every half hour, soaked in a cold sweat and feeling pukey. But never underestimate the power of art to penetrate even the worst of oyster-induced agonies. Here are few of my favorite works from the museum’s collection, and—I’ll save the best for last—the most spectacularly unmissable thing about the Centre Pompidou.

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Paris with a baby: Walk everywhere!

After visiting Paris several times, I’ve settled into a pace and style of travel that allows me to truly savor the delights of this enchanting city. Fortunately, it also happens to be a great way to experience Paris with a baby—maybe even the best way, but I might be biased here.

My entire “Paris with a baby” philosophy can be summed up in these words: Don’t plan too much. Walk everywhere. Let yourself be surprised.

Paris walking baby along the Seine River

By far, the best day we had in Paris as a family was an entire Sunday with only two things on our agenda: brunch with friends and a picture at Trocadero. A stroller is not something any parent wants to be folding, unfolding and schlepping around the Escher-esque labyrinth of stairs that is the Paris metro. So, to fill in the rest of our day, we simply walked everywhere.

Paris taking baby for a walk

We allowed ourselves a generous two hours to wander from our hotel in the 2nd arrondissement to brunch in the 17th, then another two hours to stroll home along the banks of the Seine from Trocadero. And it was simply perfect: relaxed and refreshing, with flashes of the Paris that exists beyond the tourist snapshots and postcard views.

Want to see just how much we enjoyed Paris on foot in just one day? Take a look.

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Paris eats: Le Dome Cafe’s seafood platter

More than romance and lights, Paris to me means fantastic restaurants and superb food. After living in a city with rather limited dining out options, I salivated over the idea of being able to waltz into practically any cafe or brasserie and feast on more than just the regular complement of sandwiches and soups.

We decided to splurge on our first evening out in Paris with dinner at Le Dome Cafe in Montparnasse.

Le Dome Cafe Paris Montparnasse

Le Dome Cafe is the quintessential Paris brasserie at its turn-of-the-century, glamorous best.

Le Dome Cafe Paris Montparnasse outside seating

All sumptuous reds and gleaming brass, Le Dome is a throwback to turn-of-the-century Paris, where leading intellectuals, artists and authors of the day would gather here for food and conversation. 

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Paris eats: Du Pain et des Idées

It isn’t every day I can savor breakfast from one of the best bakeries in Paris—if not the best. So, one crisp and sunny morning, I trekked across Paris on foot, baby and husband in tow, to worship at baker Christophe Vasseur’s temple of bread and ideas…

Du Pain et des Idees Paris boulangerie

the aptly named Du Pain et des Idées.

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