Five faves: Riga Central Market

Five faves from Riga Central Market

Whether we’re at home or traveling, Marlon and I love to visit markets. Because we stayed at a self-catering apartment in Riga, a trip to the Riga Central Market became a necessary part of our visit, as well as a different insight into the city. Once we ventured beyond the pastel prettiness of the Old Town and stepped across the railway tracks to the market, Riga truly started to get real.

Spread out over five former Zeppelin hangars, the Riga Central Market was Europe’s biggest covered market when it first opened in the 1930s. Today, it’s the nerve center of the city, where people come to buy daily essentials—including, of course, food. Here are five of my fave finds from the Riga Central Market.


Riga Central Market bread

In my previous post, I mentioned how good Latvian bread is. (Side note: read this lively account of a baker’s trip to Riga, in which he enthuses that “the best old-world Jewish baking is in Riga.”) At the Riga Central Market, we discovered Latvian bread in all its various forms and hues, from fluffy white loaves to the deepest, darkest rye bread.

But the best of them all were these crunchy, savory bread chips from Latvia’s most famous bakery, Laci. I got seriously hooked on these!

Riga Central Market black bread chips

Of all the things you can do with stale bread, deep frying it and tossing it in a secret mixture of herbs and salt has got to be the best—and the most addictive. Move over, potato chips… bread is where it’s at!


Riga Central Market smoked fish

One entire pavilion at the Riga Central Market is dedicated to fish, and I’d say about 2/3 of everything in that pavilion is smoked.

Riga Central Market smoked fish variety

Smoking fish is a big part of local food culture, and here we saw all kinds: fish smoked with garlic, peppers, herbs and spices…

Riga Central Market smoked fish with peppers

even smoked caviar, which formed a kind of chewy jerky.

Riga Central Market caviar jerky

Marlon and I love our smoked fish—as a child traveling to India, I once carried daing and smoked tinapa in my handbag on the flight—so we bought some for our dinners at home. Although our preference would have been to eat it with a heaping plate of hot rice (of course), instead we flaked some smoked mackerel over a big salad with vinaigrette on the side. Yum!


Riga Central Market smoked cheese

Latvians don’t only smoke their fish—they smoke their cheese too. We tried some of the smoked cheese, but I really loved were these soft cheeses crusted in different herbs and spices. My favorite was the cheese at the bottom, which is covered in a curry mixture. If you’re going on a picnic in Riga’s main city park, this with a salty-savory cracker would be perfect.


Riga Central Market pickles

I was once a girl who fished pickles out of burgers and left them on my plate, uneaten. Pregnancy changed my relationship with pickles forever, and now I love them!

Next to smoking, pickling is a favorite technique at the Riga Central Market. With all sorts of pickled fruit and vegetables ranging from your usual gherkins to beets, tomatoes, whole heads of garlic, and even slaw (also known to us Pinoys as atchara), this is pickle paradise. Pregnant women, take note.


Riga Central Market cherries in season

Latvia is densely forested, with 47% of land covered by lush, green forests. This makes wild berries and fruits abundant, and picking them is a popular summertime pursuit. While we were there in July, these big, bright red cherries were overflowing from market stalls and sidewalk vendors around the city. At less than €5 (Php300) for a kilo, they were super cheap… and Tala loved them, too.

Is that five things already? Okay, this is not a foodie find, but always a favorite: FLOWERS!

Riga Central Market flowers

Flowers from Riga Central Market

IG-Baby's breath from Riga Central Market

Latvians love flowers. There’s even a 24-hour flower market in Riga—you know, for urgent flower needs, such as those 2 a.m. lovers’ quarrels or 5 a.m. train station goodbyes. Our visit to the Riga Central Market ended with a walk past these colorful flower stalls, which was a nice way to leave.

Apart from watching locals go about their daily business, the best thing about the Riga Central Market is that everything is super affordable. I even spotted some bouquets for as low as €1 apiece! I definitely recommend it if you’re in Riga on a budget—and even if you’re not, it’s a chance to experience Riga, for real.

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Art Nouveau in Riga

Do you remember your childhood obsessions? We all had them. They came in phases, each one as intense and inexplicable as the next. For you, it might have been dinosaurs, stamps, ice skating, Greek mythology. For me, for quite a while, it was Art Nouveau.

It all started when my mom brought home a coloring book of Art Nouveau stained glass windows. With my washable Crayola markers, I attacked that book with the fervor of Michelangelo working on the Sistine Chapel, as kids do. I would hold up each translucent page to the light, mesmerized by the colors shining through flowering vines, graceful curves, and the billowing robes of nameless nymphs.

It’s been decades since I colored within those lines, but my fascination with Art Nouveau remains. This is what made walking down Alberta iela in Riga a thrill for the little girl in me.

Riga Art Nouveau 3

Riga has the highest concentration of Art Nouveau architecture of any city in the world. With an estimated 40 percent of the buildings in Riga’s old center belonging to the Art Nouveau style (or Jugendstil in German), it’s a must-visit for lovers of this architectural style.

Riga Art Nouveau 1

Riga’s 800+ Art Nouveau beauties were built during the economic boom that swept Europe between the late 1800s to early 1900s. Most of them can be found on Alberta iela (street) and Elisabetes iela, or the embassy district.

Riga Art Nouveau 4

These Art Nouveau apartment buildings are loaded with sumptuous details, and I strained my neck just looking up at all of them. Female faces abound, with finely molded expressions ranging from gentle to melancholy to fierce.

Riga Art Nouveau 13

Riga Art Nouveau 8

Riga Art Nouveau 6
Riga Art Nouveau 14

The male faces, however, tend to veer towards the freakishly tortured. There’s a story in there somewhere, I’m sure…

Riga Art Nouveau 11

These buildings were intended to show off wealth, which explains the heavy-handed “more is more” approach. Aside from nature, Art Nouveau draws heavily from myth—from nymphs to dragons, sphinxes to centaurs, no mythical creature is spared.

Riga Art Nouveau 12

I’m also slightly obsessed with doors. If you’re a lover of doors, gates or windows, a stroll down Alberta iela will add some impressive photos to your collection.

Riga Art Nouveau 15
Riga Art Nouveau 5
Riga Art Nouveau 9

For more on Riga’s Art Nouveau architecture, check out Artweekenders’ informative and interesting post is a good read, which includes some juicy tidbits about the main man behind Riga’s Art Nouveau boom. I know this style of architecture isn’t for everyone, and I probably wouldn’t want to live entirely like this, but I find it fascinating nonetheless.

Okay, geek girl moment over! Next up: a visit to Riga’s Central Market.

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Old Town Riga: A Baltic beauty restored

Riga old town St Peter's spire

“What on earth are you going to do there for a whole week?” was something I was asked a lot before our recent trip to Riga. Aside from being a choir groupie and cheering my friends on at the World Choir Games, I couldn’t say much other than: “Get to know Riga, I suppose.” (I also got a lot of “World Choir Games? Is that like the Hunger Games?” Duh. But that’s another story.)

Visitors to the city pretty much start—and end—with Old Town Riga, a treasure box of pretty pastel buildings, winding narrow alleys, and gleaming cobblestoned streets.

Riga old town street

Riga old town rooftop

Riga old town cat on roof

The Cat House, or House of the Black Cat. Love this.

Most of Old Town Riga’s buildings were built in between the late 1800s to the early 1900s. After Latvia gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, meticulous restorations brought back the sparkle to this quaint and charming Baltic gem.

Riga old town Art Nouveau building

I really admire (and envy) how the Latvians were able to restore their Old Town in a little over than 20 years. Call it “prettified” or a “theme park” (well, maybe compared to the rest of Riga), but that’s infinitely better than abandoned and left to rot. Manila needs this kind of love.

Riga old town balcony

Riga’s Old Town is compact and easily explored in a day or two of walking, making it perfect for a weekend city trip. Most of its highlights—particularly the touristic trifecta of St. Peter’s Church, the House of Blackheads, and the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia—are within minutes of each other.

Riga old town buskers at St Peter's Church

Buskers playing the Game of Thrones theme (!!!) at St. Peter’s Church

Riga old town House of Blackheads

The House of Blackheads

Riga old town Museum of the Occupation

A sobering but essential visit: the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia

A few notables:

  • The restaurant at Hotel Gutenbergs serves dinner on its roof terrace overlooking the rooftops of the Old Town. A little pricey, but the view makes it special.
  • Good news for the tech-addicted: wifi is everywhere! Most Old Town restaurants and cafes offer free Wifi, and you can practically hop from one network to another as you walk down the street.
  • Latvian bread is incredibly yummy. I couldn’t get enough of it! The local black bread is especially tasty and makes white bread taste boring and bland in comparison.

Old Town Riga is incredibly pretty, and I’m glad the World Choir Games brought me here. I probably wouldn’t have gone all this way to visit for no reason at all—it’s not exactly one of those bucket list destinations, which makes it such an underrated jewel.

But there’s far more to Riga than its Old Town, and truth be told, it was those discoveries that made my experience of this Baltic capital memorable and complete. Stay tuned.

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sisterMAG Blogger Feature: Urban Island

Oh hey look, I’m in sisterMAG! What a great way to start the week.

Issue #14 of “the journal for the digital lady” is all about Islands this summer, and celebrates the Urban Island for those who spend their summer holidays in the city. I’m part of a sisterMag blogger feature that highlights what summer is like in the “urban islands” of Barcelona, Hamburg, Essen, Munich, Vienna and of course, Amsterdam.

Amsterdam canals Instagram

Spring with the famous Dutch tulips in full bloom is great for visiting Amsterdam. But for me, summer is the best time to actually be living in Amsterdam. Because Tala doesn’t go to school yet, Marlon and I like to travel off-peak, during the months of April to June and early September.

That leaves the summer for discovering my adopted city: fighting for tables on packed terraces (and discovering new ones), feeling more like myself by wearing sandals and skirts, biking in the sunshine, seeing the canals by boat. I actually feel cheated when we’re away during the summer and I find out that Amsterdam’s been having awesome weather. When the sun’s out in this city, I often feel thankful for my life here, and feel that there’s no place I’d rather be.

I’m happy to be celebrating my favorite season in Amsterdam by being part of this issue of sisterMAG. You can read Issue #14 right here—skip ahead to page 195 for the Urban Island section, or take your time and savor the whole magazine. It’s fab summer reading. Enjoy!

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Life is beginning again

Doreen Fernandez

It’s oddly prescient of our food-loving relationship that Marlon and I met in the freshman English class of Doreen Fernandez, the Philippines’ foremost food scholar, food writer and food critic.

Both of us loved Doreen, although perhaps we didn’t appreciate her as much as we did after we left her class, and especially after she passed away in 2002. Maybe because in our classroom, she wasn’t the Philippines’ foremost food writer, scholar, critic and all those amazing things—she was simply Ma’am Doreen.

Her Facebook page, run by her relatives after her death, says:

She has taught us that food writing can be a scholarly pursuit, eating an erudite experience, and the celebration of Filipino cooking an affirmation of our national identity.

But what she taught me was that I was good at writing, that I could take it beyond the formal theme books of high school, and do more with it than impress teachers with my precociousness. I’m a writer today because of her generous marks on my essays; because she called me to read my writing out loud in front of the class; because when I wrote about a creepy supernatural thing that happened to me, she believed me (and told me to contact Danton Remoto and join the Spirit Questors); because of her gentle ways and ever-present smile.

It was a delicate time in my life, but I didn’t know that then. At the time I needed it most, she gave me the stimulus I needed to write, a structure within which to write regularly, and the gentle encouragement to keep writing well.

As chair of the Communication department, her door was always open for a chat. I remember talking to her about wanting to live in Europe, and if I should do it as a singer or as an English teacher. “Sing!” she said without hesitation. “If I could sing, I would! You can teach English when you’re old, like me.”

I’ve been rediscovering her food writing, or at least trying to. Her books are hard to get hold of outside the Philippines, but some of her wonderful essays are excerpted in this blog. That’s how I found this quote, which I think is a wonderful way to start the week—or any day for that matter. The reference to food makes it uniquely Doreen, and resonates with a foodie like me.

So, happy start of the week, everyone! I wish you a fresh and hopeful day, an upbeat spirit, and life that begins anew. Oh, and good food, too.

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