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Let’s Do Brunch in… Berlin

Our last brunch date for 2012 is in a vibrant, creative city that I’ve been to twice, but only really fell in love with this year. And that is Berlin!

One of my regrets from last spring’s “working” visit to Berlin is that I didn’t get to try any of the many breakfast places I saw or read about. My impression was that Berlin seems to be wild about breakfast—an impression confirmed by enthusiastic Berliner Lena from Mina Moka. Lena is a self-confessed brunch addict and big city lover, which makes her the perfect person to be our Berlin brunch guide.

Happy brunching, and here’s to more delicious brunches in 2013!

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Posted on December 30, 2012
Category: Let's Do Brunch · Labels: Berlin, brunch, Europe, food, Germany, guest post, Let's Do Brunch

Monschau Christmas market

For Christmas markets near Amsterdam, there are a few usual suspects: Cologne, Aachen, Osnabruck and Muenster, all within 2-3 hours from here by train or car. There’s also Valkenburg in the south of the Netherlands, as well as Maastricht in Belgium.

So I had never heard of Monschau until our German Airbnb host mentioned it. Going with a local’s advice is always a smart thing to do when traveling, so after our visit to the Aachen market, we thought… why not?

It turned out to be a great spur-of-the-moment decision! The 45-minute drive from Aachen was like driving through a winter wonderland (check out Monday’s post for lovely snow photos). And Monschau itself, a small town nestled deep in the North Eifel hills, is absolutely charming.

Beautifully preserved half-timbered houses (like those in Limburg aan der Lahn) line the banks of the Rur river, which runs through the town.

Monschau’s Christmas market is distributed throughout the winding streets of the Old Town, with a small indoor market for those who want to get in out of the cold. Most of the town’s shops and cafes stay open through the weekend (rare for Europe!), so there’s more than just a few market stalls to explore.

The whole town seems to have been taken over by Christmas, creating a wonderfully festive atmosphere that can make anyone feel cozy even in the cold. (A little bit of fur and snuggling helps, too.)

There are plenty of fun finds and delicious treats to be had.

But for me, the Monschau Christmas market is not as much about eating, shopping or drinking. Where the magic lies is strolling through this incredibly picturesque town, occasionally looking up at snow-laden rooftops, white-tipped trees, even a castle on a hill, and allowing yourself to be delighted by all the charming details along the way.

I’d say the only drawback is that you need a car to get here, but it’s well worth it for a fairytale Christmas unlike anything the bigger, more train-friendly cities (such as Cologne or Aachen) can offer. I think this is my favorite Weihnachtsmarkt experience so far: intimate, picturesque and right out of a Christmas storybook. I’m already looking forward to next year.

A small travel tip: Leave your car parked by the Gymnasium, or high school; then take the Park & Ride bus service to the market in the Old Town down in the valley. Remember to drive slowly as you approach Monschau, so you can spot the Park & Ride signs!

5 Comments
Posted on December 7, 2012
Category: Wanderlust · Labels: Christmas, Europe, Germany, market, Monschau, travel

Minimalist Nativity

One of the Christmas traditions that Marlon and I both grew up with was the belen, or Nativity scene. It was easy for us to agree on having a belen in our home during the holidays—what wasn’t easy was finding one that we both liked. Most of the Nativity sets we saw (mostly in the Philippines and Germany) were either too old-fashioned or elaborate for our tastes.

Well, after nearly five years, the search is over! We finally found our family belen last weekend at the Aachen Christmas market.

I was browsing with my friend Leslie in a store called Käthe Wohlfahrt, which sells traditional German Christmas ornaments. As soon as I saw this hand-carved wooden belen, I fell in love. Clean, simple, no fuss—just the way I wanted it. I brought Marlon back with me to see it, and he was equally charmed.

The small size is perfect for apartment dwellers like us. Though the figures are tiny (no taller than my pinkie), they’re all mounted on one piece of wood, making them less likely to be misplaced. They have a young, Playmobil kind of feel that I like… suited to the kids that (I think) Marlon and I still are in many ways. Plus, it fits this year’s minimalist theme at home, too.

Part of what made our belen search difficult was my tendency to be particular about faces and expressions. These ones, I like. They’re fairly neutral without being dead, and cute without being cheesy.

This scene doesn’t include the Three Wise Men, but that isn’t a huge deal. The shepherds and angels were the first on the scene anyway. Besides, I couldn’t resist these tiny adorable sheep!

Our little family is still figuring out and making up its Christmas traditions, but I’m happy that this year, another piece of the puzzle has fallen into place with a quiet click.

Did you grow up with a Nativity scene at home, or do you have one now? I’d love to hear about it!

6 Comments
Posted on December 6, 2012
Category: Shopping & Finds · Labels: Aachen, Christmas, Germany, home, market, shopping

Aachen Christmas market

Visiting Christmas markets in Germany is becoming an annual holiday tradition—and one that I really love! After visiting Cologne last year (a major city with eight Christmas markets), I was in the mood for something more low key. So last weekend, Marlon and I rented a car with our friends Leslie and Tobias, and made the three-hour drive to Aachen, a German town right next to both the Netherlands and Belgium.

Aachen’s Weihnachtsmarkt, or Christmas market, is spread out over two of the most central places in town: the Markt and the Katschhof, a square between the cathedral and the town hall.

This charming town is known for hard, flat cookies called Aachener printen, which are everywhere this time of year. Giant printen men (not to be confused with gingerbread men!) are the mascots of this particular market.

While Aachen is smaller than Cologne, the market was crazy packed. Our friends had a one year-old in a stroller and had a pretty difficult time of it (because of both the crowd and cobblestones), so this might be a better choice for families with older children. I would love to come back here with Little Mango when she’s no longer so little, if only to see her on this awesome carousel that has vintage bikes and sports cars, helicopters, a Vespa, police car, even a fire truck with a ladder!

With no decorations at home and Holland preoccupied with Sinterklaas, strolling around Aachen’s Christmas market was just the thing I needed to get me into holiday mode. Especially when it snowed!

Plus, I got to do all three of my top must-dos for any German Christmas market. Read on to find out what they are.

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Posted on December 4, 2012
Category: Food & Drink, Wanderlust · Labels: Aachen, Christmas, Europe, food, Germany, market, travel

First snow of the year!

I didn’t expect to welcome December with snow. But that’s exactly what happened this weekend, when Marlon and I drove over the border with friends to Germany.

Can you say winter wonderland?

Apologies for the awkward telephone lines. I shot this from a moving car and I’m not a Photoshop ninja yet. But I just love the different shades of gray and white in this hilly landscape.

Not quite as spectacular, but exciting nonetheless, was waking up this morning to a light snowfall in Amsterdam. Here’s the view of my street from my living room window.

Out back, these plump pigeons were stranded in trees as a light dusting of flakes fell. The pigeons are flying around now, since everything has already melted—not even two hours after it stopped snowing.

It’s my second year here, and my second snowfall, but seeing snow still gives me this calm, happy feeling inside. I’m starting to believe this will never get old; I hope it never does.

While Holland is all about Sinterklaas this week, this blog will be all about Christmas. After all, I’ve just been to two Christmas markets in Germany… and I’m so excited to share them with you.

Hope these images start your week on a bright (white) note! Are you feeling the Christmas spirit yet?

2 Comments
Posted on December 3, 2012
Category: Life in Amsterdam, Wanderlust · Labels: Amsterdam, Europe, Germany, snow, winter

How to make your own Ritter Sport

Head to the Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt on Französische Straße 24, Berlin. Just off the Gendarmenmarkt and very near Berlin’s most popular monuments, it’s a sweet end to a day of sightseeing. You may stare worshipfully outside for a few moments before entering. This, after all, is your temple.

At the time of your visit, there may or may not be hordes of weary parents and sugar-crazed children. Gently but firmly make your way past them to the end of the queue. Wait your turn to pay for the number of chocolate bars you wish to make; a standard-size 100g square costs €3.90 (US$ 1.25 or about Php 210).

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18 Comments
Posted on May 29, 2012
Category: Food & Drink, Wanderlust · Labels: Berlin, chocolate, Europe, food, Germany, travel

Berlin: love letter after a weekend fling

Dear Berlin,

You sure know how to push my buttons.

Really. How could I not find myself infatuated with you, after…

… you welcomed me to a beautiful apartment in Kreuzberg. Living in this quietly stylish dwelling in such a vibrant neighborhood (“you are totally in the right neighborhood, Kreuzberg is the place to be,” said Ben, who checked us into the apartment) felt like stepping into someone else’s life for a few days. Someone else much hipper and tidier than I am, for sure!

… you surrounded me with art, art everywhere. My impression was of a city with more memorials to the dead than any other I’ve visited before. The grieving, solitary mother in the Neue Wache, the New Guard House…

Mother with her Dead Son, sculpture by Käthe Kollwitz

… and the 2,711 eerie, towering concrete slabs of the Holocaust Memorial. Walking in this massive work of art sobered and chilled me—it was like finding yourself swallowed up by tombstones; trapped by hard, merciless, endless gray.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, Peter Eisenman and Buro Happold

Oh, Berlin. Bombed to rubble in World War II, you became a blank canvas from which anyone could create anything. You may not be a Renaissance masterpiece like Florence, or a Belle Epoque objet d’art like Paris, but you are a work of art that is constantly evolving. Your art is more than just about death; it is life reasserting itself everyday, everywhere. Your children create marvels out of mailboxes and street signs.

… you beckoned me into your quiet, graceful courtyards. There, away from the crowds and in the stillness, you showed your hidden face. And it was beautiful.

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Posted on May 24, 2012
Category: Wanderlust · Labels: Berlin, Europe, Germany, travel

Heading to The Hive

Guten abend from Berlin!

I think I’ve just died at the hands of a mean, mustachioed margarita-mixing hipster with a heavy tequila hand. Before my soul leaves my body, I want to share what I’m up to this weekend. It’s also the reason I’m in Berlin, and why the new and improved Currystrumpet absolutely (die die, as they say in Singapoh) had to be launched this week.

That would be The Hive, a first-of-its-kind conference for bloggers in Europe. Founded by three like-minded (and brave!) bloggers from Hamburg, Amsterdam and Prague, The Hive is meant to be a place for Europe-based bloggers to meet, share ideas and learn from a great roster of speakers, many of whom are blog celebrities in their own right. It takes place at the Berlin creative hub Betahaus this weekend.

I signed up for The Hive in February; I didn’t think much about it, I just did it. Only after registering did I even begin to think about how I would present myself and my blog. It soon became clear to me that I needed to overhaul my blog before I could feel right about putting it out into the world—much like cleaning up before inviting guests over.

I’ve blogged for years, but kept it pretty low-key. No self promotion, no Facebook page, no networking. The Hive marks the first time I’m going to actually, physically put myself out there and introduce my blog to complete strangers, many of them far more successful/inspiring/professional/______(insert adjective here) at blogging than I.

So I am feeling both excited and nervous. Wish me luck. And have a happy weekend, wherever you are!

8 Comments
Posted on May 18, 2012
Category: Creative Projects, Wanderlust · Labels: Berlin, blogging, Europe, Germany, The Hive, travel

Brunch in the Belgian Quarter

I’ve been to Köln several times, but never ventured too far away from the Dom and the main shopping street, Schildergasse. I made it a point to change that on my most recent visit two weeks ago, intrigued by bits and pieces I’d read about an area packed with stylish shops and cool cafes, called the Belgisch Viertel or Belgian Quarter.

This funky district starts from the main street of Aachener Strasse, which, I was happy to discover, was literally across the street from our hotel, the Barcelo Cologne City Center. The extremely helpful Travelettes Smart Guide to K öln spoke of the Metzgerei & Salon Schmitz as a quirky little place for Sunday brunch (and for hipster-spotting), and it was easy enough to find, thanks to the swarm of sunning hipsters on the sidewalk.

Marlon and I immediately joined the sun-powered Europeans (oh, to what depths we tropical folk have fallen), delighted to be in the sunshine and relieved that no blood had to be shed to win a table.

Drinks are served from the cafe next door, while meals must be ordered at the counter of the tiny Metzgerei Schmitz itself, which is a former butcher’s shop with lovely old tiles and a cozy atmosphere. I was proud of myself for ordering entirely in what’s left of my college German.

In addition to the big brunch plates, fluffy pancakes and large, flavorful quiches, I was delighted to find an incarnation of one of my favorite desserts in the world… tarte au citron! Sunshine and lemon makes Deepa a happy girl.

A post-brunch stroll around the neighborhood led us to the Brusseler Platz, a small, tree-lined square where even more hipsters sat around basking in the sunshine (and in their own their top-knotted hipness)…

… while my nose for bargains led us to a pop-up vintage flea market tucked into an Indonesian restaurant. #score

It was Sunday, so most of the cafes and stores were closed, like this interesting little “crepresso bar” that would have otherwise drawn us in for a taste.

So we decided to simply enjoy the little details of this neighborhood, from quirky street art…

… to quirky real art (like this mockup of a Swedish favela)

… to evidence of quirky residents.

Determined shoppers will always find something that’s open… even in a European country on a Sunday afternoon. The Boutique Belgique was an especially satisfying find. While Marlon pretended to get his inner thug on, I seized a pair of fabulous Balmain brogues on über-markdown. This was literally my face when I found them; Marlon heard me gasp and immediately pointed the camera at me when I whirled around to face him with the shoes. Good man.

Down the street, we stepped into Simon und Renoldi, a super chic store for home, fashion and lifestyle. Aside from the hip styling and great brands, we also saw… the ubiquitous banig. Level up ang Pinas, ha! Dati pang-Divisoria lang itey.

Our attention now directed to the floor, Marlon and I spied this beautiful woven cotton rug by House Doctor, which reminded us of a Indian block printing made modern by the coral on gray palette…

… and is now on our living room floor. Yay for conjugal impulse buys! They feel so much more justified.

I wonder how much success/fun/damage the Belgian Quarter has to offer when all the stores are actually open. Then again, maybe I shouldn’t try too hard to find out.

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Posted on April 18, 2012
Category: Shopping & Finds, Wanderlust · Labels: brunch, Europe, Germany, Koln, shopping, travel

Limburg’s half-timbered houses

The weekend after we went to Prague, Marlon and I were off again—this time to Germany to watch Florence and the Machine in Köln. Coincidentally, the Glee Club‘s first stop on this year’s European tour was Oberweyer, a tiny village just an hour’s drive from Köln, that same weekend. So we decided to drive over to see them.

On the way to Oberweyer, we had a few hours to stop by Limburg an der Lahn in the region of Hessen. My first tour with the Glee Club in 2000 included a lot of stops in Hessen, particularly in the green, hilly part known as Taunus, where Limburg is. I have wonderful memories of a beautiful Sunday afternoon driving around the hills of Taunus and walking in the cobbled, winding alleys of Limburg’s Altstadt, or Old Town.

What makes this charming town so special is its collection of perfectly preserved half-timbered houses, with exposed timber framework, from the 17th and 18th century.

For me, Limburg’s Altstadt is storybook Germany. Just like a storybook, it’s complete with all the odd little characters you find in old tales.

Take these goofy demons, for example. They adorn a famous bakery that makes such figures out of bread. If I remember correctly, they are meant to represent the fire demons that keep the baker’s ovens roaring.

While we posed for pictures outside the bread-adorned bakery, this immense, shaggy (and completely adorable!) dog kept passing back and forth in front of the camera. We couldn’t take a picture without the dog in it! It completely cracked us up. Later we went up to the owner and found out that this is called a Black Russian Terrier. #iWant

Limburg is one of those hidden gems I would never have sought out on my own if I hadn’t been touring with the Glee Club. Because of its picturesque charm and the memories I have here, it holds a special place in my heart. It’s one of my favorite places ever. And I was so happy to be able to share that with Marlon.

Limburg’s famous Dom, or Cathedral, stands on the town’s highest point and beckons from miles away. On our climb, we saw signs of spring (hard to believe with the cold) and took a peek into the courtyard of Schoss Limburg, or Limburg Castle…

… and looked out over charming dormer windows and peaked rooftops tiled with blue-gray slate.

The Dom is just as I remember it, a towering structure made distinctive by its Romanesque features and coral trim.

Inside, it seems to have gotten a lighting upgrade and a good whitewashing over the last 11 years. All the better to showcase its serene beauty.

Before we left, I just had to slip away to find a special place, to see if it was still as I remembered it. A small outcropping beside the church, behind a low stone wall, towards the Lahn… and sure enough, there it was.

Lately I find that travel has become all about ticking boxes off a “bucket list”, chasing the rush that comes with heady new experiences and exotic, unfamiliar destinations. I had forgotten how powerful it can be to take a picture in your mind—mine includes this 600 year-old bridge, a parting of the clouds, a breathless dash, laughter—and to treasure it for years…